WOMEN’S CLOTHES

Aymilla: Aymilla is a woolen fabric shirt worn by both men and women. It is woven with plain weave. More recently the aymilla has come to be replaced with the camisa de mujeres or woman’s blouse.

The camisa de mujeres is made of white commercial fabric and embroidered on the front and sleeves, and often paired with a kurpino (vest) of the same cloth and embroidery (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007). According to Vidal de Milla (2000), these textiles traditionally had floral and geometric patterns (Vidal de Milla 2000).

Chumpi: This woven belt or strap is typically worn by women, although men may employ it to hold their pants up. Pre-Incan in origin, the chumpi was used to tie the waist of the polleras (skirts) and secure babies swaddled in blankets on women’s backs (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007).

Juyuna or jobona: This is a kind of women’s jacket made from plain weave wool fabric. The jacket is adorned with beads, buttons, embroidery, and ribbons (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007). According to Vidal de Milla (2000), in the Cusco region these textiles traditionally featured flower, branch, or broken line patterns (Vidal de Milla 2000).

Lliclla: Lliclla means shawl or blanket (manta). It is a square shape formed by sewing two long strips together. The strips may be narrower or wider depending on the intended use of the textile. This is a key part of women’s clothing, typically worn as a mantle that stretches from the shoulders to the waist (or beyond), and may be used to carry many different things, including babies (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007). According to Vidal de Milla (2000), these textiles have been used since the Inca period (Vidal de Milla 2000).

Montera: The montera is a hat, adapted from the Spanish. Women typically wear this, but in some communities, men who have been elected to public office wear them too. Monteras typically feature brims made of straw and decorations on the crown (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007). According to Vidal de Milla (2000), traditionally married people in Cusco wore dark green ones, while single people decorated theirs with flowers (Vidal de Milla 2000).

Pollera: This skirt, which may be worn in multiples, is made of handspun plain weave wool or, sometimes, commercial fabric. These pleated skirts are often adorned with multicolored woven bands. The lower bands are called golones, which are woven strips of tapestry, and there may be other decorative bands featuring embroidery or applique. The pollera ranges in length from knee-length to all the way to the feet (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007). According to Vidal de Milla (2000), these textiles may be derived from the stately skirts of Spain (Vidal de Milla 2000).

Ukuña: This is a small square textile, typically employed as a carrying cloth. Its size and function differ from region to region, with the ones made in Pitumarca of particularly fine quality. The ukuña may also be used to carry coca leaves or lunch, or used in rituals (Callañaupa Alvarez 2007).

References Cited

Callañaupa Alvarez, Nilda (2007). Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands: Dreaming Patterns, Weaving Memories. Hong Kong: Asia Pacific.

Vidal de Milla, Delia (2000). El arte textil: simbolismo de los motivos decorativos. Cusco: Municipalidad